SCT Day 4: A beautiful sunset
We wake up to sunlight after indulging in a good amount of sleep. This insulated hut is simply amazing. I think it was a solid 13 degrees inside, which was a privilege compared to the single digit temperatures in the other huts.
We go downstairs for an oatmeal breakfast; there’s something extremely comforting about the warmth of these meals.
I’m really thankful for the food we received from Fiona and Janna. They tell us that we’re welcome to stay at the hut for another day. I’m actually pretty convinced, but I know that we must continue. My mind is weak and I just want to stop the hike altogether at Fiddlehead Landing which is only 7km away from Confederation Lake, but I’m encouraged by Justin. “I don’t know what’s ahead, but I know what’s behind us, and I sure as hell don’t wanna go back.”
We take a look at the elevation map, and notice that the elevation is quite high well before Tinhat, so we plan for a gravel road that eventually cuts back into the trail before finishing at Elk Lake. I put on my socks. Damn it. They’re still super wet and have been for the whole trip. We unfortunately couldn’t get the pellet stove to work. At least this makes my episodes of “wet socks” in Vancouver seem trivial. We pack everything, put on our snowshoes, and get started on the hike again.
I feel in great spirits today; the previous day had destroyed me, but the good hospitality and sun have me enthousiastic again. The trail to Fiddlehead Landing is not very difficult, and soon enough we no longer need our snowshoes due as the elevation reaches sea level. As we reach Fiddlehead landing, we notice that there is a fairly large house overlooking the water. As I glance back and forth at the hut and the house, I am left all but envious. We snap a couple of photos, but decide that we must continue in order to arrive at Elk Lake on time.
We cut out on to the gravel road to skip the harsh elevation gain and suspected fresh powder; it’s pretty sad to see all the logged trees as we walk through, as it’s something I have never really seen. I’m kind of disappointed that we aren’t on the hike and that there is so much snow, but am delighted by the sublime views that the gravel roads offer. As the road continues, Justin and I agree that it’s ironic that we both feel creeped out and a little eery about walking as two on this road, despite having hiked in lush forests for days.
This hike has really helped me accept that reality may not always be the same as my expectations to say the least. After a few more hours of walking on the gravel roads and getting lost around private property, we re-enter the trail en route for Elk Lake. We know that we have ~700m to climb, but the trail continually leads us up and down, implying carnage ahead.
As we encounter our first signs of snow, I notice the stark contrast in the difficulty of the trail; it feels like we are doing a harder version of the Grouse Grind in the snow with backpacks. I’m more prepared for this than yesterday, but the amount of snow is quite considerable compared to what we experienced at Confederation Lake. Bear and elk prints started to show up, but I was unable to tell if they were fresh and if they were actually elk prints. Justin and I conclude that some of the prints are simply from crampons and continue hiking, feeling uncharacteristically safe in the snowy forest. We get to the hut with maybe one hour of sunlight left, and Justin asks if we should try to make the next hut. Not knowing what is ahead, I suggest that it is not a good idea, and we set up camp.
I was really hoping for an insulated hut, but I couldn’t complain as we witnessed a beautiful sunset over the mountains. “What are you doing?” “Trying to meditate…” “How’s that going?” Justin’s such a troll…. I drift in and out of sleep as temperatures dip to 0; I didn’t wrap my sleeping bag fully around the pad and am sleeping barefoot, so it’s completely my fault. I reflect on my day, and realize that I had lost my umbrella earlier. Oh well. Hopefully it doesn’t rain or snow really hard tomorrow. The neck pain is getting increasingly uncomfortable as the lack of a pillow means I keep waking up in the middle of the night with an unpleasant surprise. The merino wool clothing is surprisingly comfortable and has become essentially another layer of skin. Thanks for the recommendations for equipment Justin. Walt Hill here we come.
